Today marked my first attempt at baking New York-style bagels. They were burnt black as asphalt, wizened beyond recognition, and due to the vagaries of this recipe, saltier than a sailor’s mouth. But I bit into one eagerly anyway, before it had the chance to cool, and for a second I didn’t miss home quite as much.

If at first you don’t succeed. . . eat them anyway! You can see the carcass of the one I couldn’t resist, despite its less-than-enticing exterior.